Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Sewaholic 1202: Cambie Dress







I'm kind of late on the cambie bandwagon, but I finally downloaded it and made it up!




Fabric is from the clearance table at spotlight, its a cotton voile. Lining is a cotton poplin.



Adjustments:
  • I started with a sz 16 and changed the front to a princess seam using the bodice from Colette 1020 (which already had a FBA of 1")
  • Added a side panel that was shirred (I did this by taking an inch off the side seams on the front and back bodice then made up a shirred panel that measured 2"+seam allowances when it was done), the skirt has enough gathers that I didn't worry about adding any width to it, I just gathered it a bit less.
  • Took a wedge out of the back neckline of about 1" tapering down to nothing at the waistline.
  • Added 1/2" to the shoulder height.
  • Petited the bodice by 1" and took an extra 1/2" out as a swayback adjustment.

I've got some rippling at the princess seams, every time I sew with voile I get this, I think its a combination of the thin fabric and being pulled tight by the shirring. Next time I sew with voile I'll try underlining it and see if that helps.


I'm happy with this, it needs a couple of small tweaks before I sew it again - There is still too much length in the back bodice and it needs more length at the front bodice. I want to add a little more ease to the bodice, probably an inch to the side shirred panel. It's the first time I've used a side shirring panel and it worked pretty good, it changes the construction steps a bit and makes it harder to fit as I sew but means its a dress I'll wear a lot more.

17 comments:

  1. Wow. That's worked out really well. I know you'll love wearing this. It looks great on you.

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  2. Oh I love the shirring on the side. It looks fantastic and must be so comfortable. You make such beautiful dresses.

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  3. The shirring detail is awesome and I agree with Summer Flies you totally rock ALL the dresses you wear.

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  4. I think the Cambie looks good on you! The shirring on the side is fabulous!

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  5. Wow. I love the adjustments! Princess seams and shirring. It's a stroke of brilliance to add in that shirring, especially in terms of fit and comfort. You look amazing and that colour is perfect on you. :)

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  6. The side shirring panel is genius! I've really been wanting to make the cambie, but I'm a bit hesitant about the grading i'll have to do. Thanks for sharing all the details of your adjustments, it is really helpful!

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  7. Wow, you really customized this pattern! It looks lovely on you. Brilliant way to get a great fit in the bodice.

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  8. Love the side shirring! What a great idea!

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  9. Oh, I love how this turned out, especially with that shirring on the sides! That fabric is gorgeous, and I think you got a great fit here. I haven't sewn this one yet either, and I wish I'd remembered it while plotting out a summer dress to make for an upcoming wedding.

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  10. what a wonderful fitting tip. i never saw that done before - how great! it gives you a terrific fit. how did you line or face the shirring part? did you stop at the shirring or line right over it?

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    1. Hi Barbara, I make the shirring panel completely separate, so its the main fabric and the lining fabric sewn together, pressed, then shirred. Then it gets inserted into the dress, this way the edges are all hidden and it looks nice and neat inside. I do it exactly like this;
      http://notesfromamadhousewife.wordpress.com/2012/08/15/inserting-a-shirred-back-panel/
      Except I also thread 6mm elastic through the very top channel to keep it sitting flush.
      Hope that helps!

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    2. genius! that top elastic makes a huge difference and really makes for a professional finish. that is one great tip!

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  11. That shirting is the best idea! Love this seriously hard, Suzy! Tops rock tape too!

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  12. Love the dress. The shirring is gorgeous.

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  13. Lovely dress. What a great idea to add shirring I haven't seen that before thanks for sharing

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  14. The shirring was a great idea!

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  15. What a great solution for fit and comfort!

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