I was lucky enough to pattern test these, I know there was a bit of controversy over pattern testing and bloggers always saying nice things about the new pattern but I can honestly say I love these jeans!
I've always stuck to wide leg jeans, they were the only type that would ever fit over my thighs and I had a couple of horrible change room experiences that cemented the no-skinny jean rule firmly in my mind! This is why I love to pattern test though - it pushes me way out of my comfort zone and into clothes I might not normally sew or wear. This is my first ever pair of stovepipe/skinny leg jeans and I am a convert!
So the pattern: These are View A with the stovepipe leg. I made a size 18 (the test pattern was pretty generous - by my measurements I should be a sz20. This has been corrected on the finished pattern though). I muslined them up in cheap denim first and made a few adjustments;
- Added 1" to the inner leg seam on the front pattern piece.
- Added 1" length at the knee
- Added 1" to the centre back height (this is a bit much though and I'll be halving it next time)
- Adjusted the side seams - I have hyperextended calves and they were dragging the side seam backwards so I added to the back and took from the front to straighten it up.
- Changed the front pockets to a pocket stay.
- Shaped the side seams - my muslin was in a thin denim and the legs draped fine, this denim is a lot thicker and just looked bunchy so I shaped it to fit my lower thighs and knee area.
- I did a couple of construction changes - I followed my fav zipper tutorial and serged the waistband facing instead of turning under (just helps to reduce bulk with a heavier weight denim).
- Shaped the waistband to be more curved to stop the gape at the back.
- Also I added elastic to the waistband to help stabilise/stop stretching out.
I'm really impressed with the pattern - I've sewn a few different jeans patterns now and these are the least adjusted pair so far. They are generous through the thigh and butt area and are a higher rise at the back to the front which I always look for.
The instructions are written towards someone who hasn't sewn jeans before plus there is an upcoming sewalong to follow as well. I had trouble with the original zipper instructions but I've just read the final pattern instructions and I can recommend them now, they are very similar to how I do my zipper install and nice and simple to follow.
I totally ran out of ideas to top stitch the back pockets so just left them plain, I did stitch one of my labels to the corner for something different.
All the top stitching is with upholstery thread and the bar tacks in the same colour normal thread.
Now all I can think about is more pairs of jeans! I have a nice thin purple denim that would be great in this pattern and could be rolled up to be capri length in summer and my daughter has a pair of shorts that are serged in hot pink thread and then cuffed so you can see the serging which I want to copy as well!